7 Segments Of Orchid Information That Will Have You Sounding Like An Orchidologist

1. Orchidaceae is the general name of the orchid family. The orchid is a morphologically varied and extensive family of monocots. It is understood to be the second leading group of flowering plants only surpassed by the Asteraceae group. There is only half as many bird species and about one fourth as many mammal species as compared to the number or orchid species. This means that the orchid family account s for approximately 5.75 to 11% of all seed plants.

2. The orchid family also includes Vanilla (vanilla plant) and Orchis (genus type) and cultivated plants like phalaenopsis or cattleyas. This tropical species was introduced in the 19th century and horticulturists have produced 100,000 hybrids and cultivars. Charles Darwin described the complex means to achieve cross-pollination in his book Fertilisation of Orchids in 1862.

3. The etymology or the name orchid comes from the Greek "orkhis". This term when translated is testicle. The use of this word comes from the fact that the root has a similar shape to a testicle. John Lindley used or introduced the term in 1845. It was used in a book called School Botany.

4. The occurrence or distribution of the orchid around the world is in almost every habitat. While the largest portion is in the tropics, orchids are also found in the Arctic Circle, southern Patagonia and close to Antarctica.

5. Leaf structure corresponds to the habitat of the species itself. Orchids that love sun or grow in places that can get dry have leaves that are thick and leathery. And the lamina is enclosed in a waxy cuticle to help keep hold of the internal moisture of the plant. Shade loving plants have long thin leaves. Most of the orchid's leaves are perennial and they live for many seasons. However, there are some with plicate leaves and do lose them on an annual basis.

6. According to one scientific study the age of orchids is possible to 100 million years ago. Now I understand this is based on a fossil of a stingless bee found encased in amber. They found pollen on its wings that places this bee in the late cretaceous period. That means Mr. Dinosaur might have given Mrs. Dinosaur orchids for their anniversary.

7. Tulip growers were one of the first worldwide flower market players but orchids are now on the same scale. The fact is that orchids are easily hybridized; they have become one of the most popular cut flowers in the worldwide marketplace. The Taiwanese and the government in Singapore have large botanical gardens to showcase their orchids. The international orchid trade show in Taiwan will bring more than 200,000 visitors.

While these seven segments of orchid information will not turn you into an orchid scholar, they just might be enough to start a great conversation at the next orchid society meeting.

Marty Lewis

Marty Lewis has been an avid horticulturist for over 30 years. Working in greenhouses allowed Marty to witness firsthand the needs of growers. Marty has been nationally recognized in horticulture competition. They have a web site http://www.orchidcareplus.com/ which gives insight to orchid owners regarding many subjects on care for their orchids. Marty would like to share an additional article about Types of Orchids with you.

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The Four Basic Requirements for Orchid Gardening

There are many myths surrounding orchids and how to grow them. One of the most common is that orchids are extremely difficult to grow. This is a big misconception I feel, it's true that there are some species of orchids that can be be very difficult to cultivate. Even highly experienced growers have problems keeping them alive. However, there are well over twenty thousand species of orchid and ten times as many hybrids, many of these are no more difficult to grow than your other garden and house plants.

It may seem difficult at first, you will need to properly research how to successfully care for your orchid first and just like anything worthwhile it'll take you a little bit of effort but in the end I know you'll find it rewarding. So stick at it and before long you'll have mastered the basics of caring for your orchids.

To help you start I've put together some basic information about gardening orchids that I hope you'll find both interesting and useful.

Basic Requirements

The requirements for orchid gardening are really not much different to gardening any other house or garden plant, water, light, fertilizer and air. If you can provide these in the right amounts then you're almost there.

There are of course a few other little extras that you can use to really get the most from your orchids including, humidity trays and grow light set-ups and many different potting mediums which I'll touch on, but for now we'll stick to the basics.

Myth number two surrounding orchids is that they must be kept in a greenhouse. I believe this stems from the common belief that orchids are tropical plants only and so you must provide these conditions for them to thrive. There are species of orchids found growing on every continent except the Antarctica and in almost every environment. Epiphytic orchids grow on trees, Lithophytes survive on rocks and terrestrial orchids are perfectly happy grown in the ground one species, Rhizanthella gardneri grows completely underground only appearing briefly for pollination to occur.

My point is that with so much variety in the world of orchids you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one that will suit your growing conditions.

1) Water

With such a huge variety of orchid species around it makes it tough to give specific requirements suitable for all orchids so you should do your best to find out as much as you can about the species of your orchid too.

In general orchids require watering well but only once every other week, they have highly adapted root systems which take in water very quickly and release it slowly over a long period of time making it easy to over water them if you're not careful. To be on the safe side let the roots of your orchids dry out almost completely before you water them again. Avoid letting the roots come into contact with standing water for any length of time or they will die off and damage the health of your orchid. For this reason it's important that potted orchids should have adequate drainage.

How much water your orchid expects and how often should give you a good idea of what potting media will be best.

2) Light

When it comes to light orchids love lots of it, long periods of sunlight, 10 to 12 hours per day will help to see your orchids thrive. However, direct sunlight should be avoided, even a small amount can burn and damage leaves leaving unhealthy looking marks or blackened leaves.

If you're growing your orchids indoors try placing it near but not too close to an eastern facing window to maximise the daylight exposure, if you're worried that the sun is too strong make use of frosted glass, net curtains or blinds to diffuse the light.

If you're orchids are out doors in your garden you can make use of objects and structures to provide it with shading, you'll know where the best spots in your garden are for this.

3) Fertilizer

You're orchid will want fertilizing periodically as potting mediums provide little in the way of nutrients. Use a solution diluted more than you would for ordinary plants.

You can purchase specialist orchid fertilizer for this which should provide more of the nutrients and trace minerals that your orchid needs to thrive.

You should stick to periods of active growth when fertilizing so avoid feeding your orchid during winter months and for a short while after re-potting.

4) Air

While terrestrial orchids can be grown in soil or compost in the garden, the majority of species are epiphytic with aerial roots adapted to having plenty of airflow.

If your orchid is mounted then this should not be much of a problem but if you're potting your orchid you need to provide it with a medium that allows plenty of air flow. This should go hand in hand with giving your orchids good drainage.

Most suitable potting media is organic such as, coconut husk, sphagnum moss and cork bark and as such will gradually decay over time. As it decays it will compact reducing air flow and increasing water retention. It may also attract more pests who feed on decaying organic matter mostly non harmful to your orchid but you may not want them around still.

Degraded potting mix should be changed as soon as possible, depending on the mix once every year or two, but be aware that the shock of re-potting may mean your orchid doesn't flower for a year or so afterwards. You can minimise the stress on your plant by avoiding damage to roots and stems when removing it from the pot.

All in all orchid gardening is fun and rewarding and it is absolutely within anyone's grasp to achieve fantastic results. Good luck and have fun!

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Orchid Pots - A General Overview

Transparent plastic or nylon orchid pots are now the chosen receptacle for seasoned and novice growers alike both can give real benefit by being able to see through the pot and observe root structure and development, as well as the moisture content of the potting media. Orchid roots should not be exposed to light, therefore, you will need to place the transparent pot into a colored pot of similar size in order to achieve this.

When you first purchase a new plant they are not always ready to be re-potted and it is best to wait until new root growth is evident, this is where your transparent pot comes into its own. The only way you could assess this situation using a clay pot would be to de-pot it!

Very often the drainage holes in the base of these pots are too small but can be enlarged slightly by using an electric solder iron, an 8mm size hole is ideal, and should be accompanied by four further holes being burned into the sides of the pot near the base.

The centre hole in the base should be covered by curved pieces of broken pot to allow drainage and stop the roots growing through the hole, which will lead to damage when the plant as to be removed. Alternatively you could place a small plastic colander shaped sieve over the hole or a small tea leave strainer would be ideal. You should ideally build up a small layer of broken pot or clinker to just cover the holes you have made in the side of the pot near the base. This will prevent roots from growing through the holes.

These types of orchid pot are really good for the greenhouse but have little appeal when used indoors. This is where your ceramic pot takes centre stage. There are some really beautiful designs available and all you need to do is place your transparent pot into the ceramic one and the job is done. Just remember, the base of your plastic see through pot should not be resting in water, therefore, it would be good idea to place the plastic pot on trestles inside the ceramic one.

Teakwood baskets or even woven twig baskets are very suitable for epiphytic orchids which grow a number of aerial roots, they can look very exotic and spice up the appearance of an orchid room or conservatory. You can take this concept even further by tying a few suitable plants to substantial piece of tree bark and then working in clumps of fiber and moss between the roots and fastened to roof rafters or uprights. Whether you decide to choose baskets or rafts they should be easily removed for watering or you will need to spray them with water several times per day as they will easily dry out.

Taking this concept even further still, you could use ferns and other types of foliage plants to grow in between your orchids. In fact some orchids which have drooping flowers can really only be grown using these hanging methods, this is where growing orchids begins to take over a part of your life and the enthusiastic amateur transforms into a serious hobby pursuit rather than a pastime.

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The Basics of Orchid Propagation - What You Need to Know!

Orchids are lovely flowers to grow. Wouldn't it be rewarding if you can produce the same kind from one single parent orchid through orchid propagation. Of course, this is no easy task. And this is the main reason for writing this article, so that I can share whatever knowledge I have in the subject. Now, let us try to put ourselves to proper perspective by knowing the tasks involve in multiplying our favorite orchid species.

I didn't know that there are several ways of propagating my orchids. In the beginning, I only knew one very simple way, which I actually learned from my mother and grandmother. Just as a little backgrounder about myself, my mom and grandma are the real orchid enthusiasts. I must say that mine was more of acquired, through the many years that I have been exposed to their orchid related activities. I will see them spending so much time cutting, re-potting and producing so much of this plant. Anyway, my interest came when I was already married and didn't seem to have much to do with my idle time. That is when I remembered, why not do what my mom used to do and enjoy doing...growing orchids.

So much for nostalgia, going back to the simple way of propagating orchids, I only used division as a method. It is fairly simple; every once in a while, I will check on new roots or new bulbs that will naturally sprout. And then I will cut it or these, depending on the number that I will see, using a sterilized pruning scissors. I also used rubber gloves to make sure that I don't infect my precious baby orchids. And then, I placed these in a new potting mixture and water them generously. Patience is necessary because after planting them, I will wait for the new plant to blossom.

Until later on, I learned that there are other ways of producing more orchids from a single plant. There is what is known among enthusiasts as the back bulb method. Don't get intimidated by the word. Back bulb simply means older stems that have shed off its leaves. In doing this, you just need to cut this off from the original plant and clean it of any dead leaves. Prepare a plastic bag with about 5cm. sphagnum moss and then bury the bulb about ? its depth. It is best to do this in batches, so put several of these stems together and follow the steps stated above. You must seal the bag and place it in a warm area using bright diffused light. You will be surprised that in a matter of 2-3 months a new growth will show off. You then need to put these in a shallow container using a layer of sphagnum moss. You have to wait for several months but make sure you place them in a diffused lighting. After this time, you may now transplant them individually using a potting medium assigned for each.

These are sure ways to help you get started with orchid propagation. Did you learn enough information to prompt you to go out and check your orchids if there are any signs that it is ready to produce new life? Go ahead, enjoy the sunlight and the morning breeze and get one of those lovely plants from your collection and start dividing those new sprouts. It can be a start of a new collection, or perhaps as gifts to a friend whose birthday is just around the corner.

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The Acineta Orchid

Acineta orchids are native to tropical America growing from southern Mexico to Peru. There are approximately 15 species of Acineta orchids which are mostly epiphytic but also lithophytic. The name Acineta comes from the Greek word akintos which means immobile which refers to the rigid immobile lip of the flower.

Acineta orchid foliage resembles the leaves of the Stanhopea and Lycaste orchids, and the flowers are similar to Peristeria. They have pendant racemes with many flowers. Some of the species are fragrant such as Acineta barkeri, beyrodtiana, chrysantha, erythroxantha, and superb.

Most Acineta orchids grow epiphytically in wet forests at altitudes between 2400 and 6000 feet. Grow in baskets in moist intermediate to cool temperatures. Use potting media that drains well, such as bark and sphagnum moss. Plants that get too warm will stress and drop leaves as well as form keikis at the top of the pseudobulbs. Acineta require low light levels equivalent to Phalaenopsis orchids. Humidity needs to be 50% or over for best results. Fertilize once a month. Let potting mix completely dry between watering. In growing season at moderate temperature water thoroughly once a week or so, depending on how dry it is and spray over head from day to day. Plant requires rest in winter time. Keep mostly dry during this time. Propagation is done by dividing the plants in early spring before the growing starts.

Acineta are prone to spider mites and scale. Always inspect new orchids for these pests before putting them with your existing plants to prevent spreading.

Acineta orchid flowers normally bloom from spring to early summer. 20 to 30 flowers is a common occurrence.

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Benefits and Uses of Orchid Flowers and How to Care for Them

Gardening specialists from around the world all love Orchids, sometimes referred to by their scientific name of Orchidaceae. These beautiful flowers cross-pollinate rapidly and can often be observed to take over vast gardens.

There are two major types of Orchids. First is the Phalinopsis and next is the Oncidiums. Allow me to elaborate a bit more about their characteristics.

Phalinopsis are the easy pollinators, causing them to propagate easily to the extreme satisfaction of owners. Phalinopsis orchids are used by advanced gardeners for cross pollination, meaning, they could "breed" this orchid with other species and as a result, could create a more distinct kind of orchid. This is one of the factors as to why there are still tons of unidentified orchids around the world.

Now, as to the second type of orchids, they are the ones that are preferred by more affluent gardeners. They are called Oncidiums. Oncidium orchids are relatively expensive. They are more expensive because most of the rare and hard to find orchids belong to this specie. Their growths are well augmented and are nurtured better indoors. Meaning, they seek places where sunlight is not as strong. Like Phalenopsis, Oncidiums are good cross pollinators, so new hybrids are released in the market every year.

In taking care of orchids, regardless of whether or not they are of the Oncidium or Phalenopsis specie, is that their water and light requirements must be taken into great consideration. Study your orchid's need for you to avoid any harm that may befall to your plant. Once you get a hang out of it, you will soon develop your own way of taking care of orchids.

Aside from beautifying your garden, Orchids have a variety of other uses. Some are used to make perfumes, fabrics, drinks, and so on. If you are that of person who loves to drink alcoholic beverages, an orchid could also help you! Jumellea fragrance are used to make rums.

Some orchids are also used to satisfy one's taste buds. For instance, did you know that vanilla is a kind of orchid? Yes! Vanilla is an orchid used to give any food that distinctive sweet vanilla taste. Another orchid that is used in the food industry is purple terrestrial orchids. These orchids are turned into powder for cooking Turkish soups or beverages.

In summary, orchids have a lot to offer. Be sure to add these magnificent flowers to your garden today.

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Orchid Care Instructions - A Proven Checklist for Mastering Orchid Care

Because orchids have a reputation as being hard to care for, following basic orchid care instructions is vital for any orchid grower.

In fact, many people avoid becoming involved with orchids altogether because they hear all too often about what a handful they can be...how they have to be continuously repotted....or how you have to have just the right balance of light and water, and so on.

In truth, orchids aren't quite as finicky and fragile as most people would lead one to believe, but it pays to have some general idea of what you're doing before you jump in. Which is why following these tips should produce great results for you:

First of all, you should recognize that no one set of orchid care instructions is going to suffice for all orchids. A recent count has it that there are some 35 thousand different species of orchid in the world, and each one has different needs.

Where one orchid type might thrive in warm, humid climates, another might do well in shady, cool areas. It pays to make sure that you know what particular type of orchid you have, and how to properly care for it.

In addition, every year your orchid should be repotted. This is because orchids are all about the roots; their roots grow and expand substantially faster than similar flowering plants, and they require a great deal of room and access to air. This is why orchids need to be transplanted to larger pots periodically. If you leave your orchid in a container that is too small for it, you'll definitely stunt its growth potential.

When considering any "essential" orchid care instructions, it may also be wise for you to practice plant division on your orchids. Some of the larger orchids can be quite beautiful, but bear in mind that the more blossoms a plant has, the more energy it requires to sustain itself.

Sometimes it can be better to divide a large plant in two, so that it becomes two smaller plants, each with a healthy root system, and an impressive array of blooms. Each orchid, being smaller, now has to consume less energy to sustain itself.

Bear in mind WHERE you place your orchid is also very important. Because orchids have such drastically different requirements, simply moving your orchid from one location to another, even temporarily, can be enough to kill it.

If your orchid thrives in humidity, never move it somewhere where it will dry out. Believe it or not, many orchids meant to be grown outside dislike the direct sunlight and should be planted accordingly.

One last piece of orchid care instruction to keep you happy as an orchid grower is to rotate your plants so you always have at least a few plants near the blooming stage.

In other words, have some new plants, some "NBS" plants, and some "BS" plants at all times. This keeps you actively engaged with all parts of the orchid life cycle and keeps you sharp. practice.

Don't try to shortcut the adventure of growing orchids! Remember these orchid care instructions are time-tested strategies for getting the most of your plants.

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Growing Phalaenopsis - The Easiest Orchid

Also known as phal, moth, and ice orchids, Phalaenopsis are the most popular orchids for many reasons. They are relatively inexpensive. They are considered by many to be the most beautiful which is saying a lot given that there are over 30,000 species and 100,000 hybrids. They are the most commonly sold orchids in garden and home centers, and now even in supermarkets. They have long lasting blooms, and many consider them the easiest orchid to care for - a perfect orchid for beginner and amateur orchid lovers. This article reviews the characteristics of the phal and optimum growing conditions.

Epiphytic and Lithophytic. Most phals are epiphytes, meaning that in nature they grow on other plants non-parasitically, that is, without deriving nutrients from their host. Moth orchids derive nutrients from dew, rainfall, air, and any material that accumulates around the roots. Some phals are lithophytes meaning that they grow on rocks. Phals can even be found clinging to buildings and poles.

Photosynthesis.Unlike the roots of our other houseplants that are damaged when exposed to air and light, the roots of the phal perform photosynthesis, converting sunlight to energy. Thus they prefer a clear pot with a special orchid mix made of bark chunks that won't absorb much moisture and allow air to circulate.

Blooms. Phals have multiple large, showy flowers on each spike which bloom 3 to 4 months, and sometimes as long as 6 months. When the blooms are over give them a cold spell by watering with and ice cube daily or 3 to 6 ice cubes once per week for 6 weeks. This will produce a secondary spike on the old stalk and your orchid will rebloom.

Soil. Phal soil must not be soil as we know it but rather a medium of bark chunks or sphagnum that allow water to flow around the roots and immediately out the bottom of the pot.

Temperature. The optimum temperature is normal home and office temperature of 70 to 80 degrees F during the day and 60 to 70 at night. Phals can tolerate temperatures as high as the 90's but will need more frequent watering.

Humidity. Optimal humidity is no less than 50%. Higher the better. One way to increase humidity is to place your potted phal on top of a bed of stones in a deep dish or tray. Keep the stones wet, but do not let roots or an absorbable pot (such as a clay pot) touch water, otherwise the orchid will continuously absorb water which is lethal. I don't recommend misting since water droplets left on leaves or flower petals, especially overnight, can cause rot.

Light. An east-facing window is ideal. Be sure any light is filtered through white shades or curtains to prevent sunburn, mirroring the dappled light of the tropical forest floor. 12 hours of light is optimal. Grow-lights can be used where light is significantly less than optimal such as winter months in extreme northern and southern latitudes. Bright green leaves indicate good light. Dark green indicates not enough light. Yellow leaves can indicate too much light (or too much water, or a disease, or natural die-off of lower leaves).

Water. Phalaenopsis prefer water early in the morning once every 7 - 10 days - more during summer, less in winter. More if consistent temperatures are higher than optimal. More when blooming or a large plant. Watering can be as often as 2-3 times a week. Get to know your particular orchid because phal roots want to dry out before being watered. Place under a tap and run water over the bark medium for about 15 seconds. Tepid water is ideal. Water should run right over the roots and bark medium and out the bottom of the pot, moistening the roots and flushing away harmful deposits. Phals do not like soggy roots - I can't emphasize this enough. If you are doing the ice cube method be sure to do a normal watering once a month to flush away harmful deposits.

Fertilizer. Moth orchids like a weak fertilizer. Commercial brands are fine, but dilute the instructions by ? to ?. Apply every other watering. Try making your own organic fertilizer - there's a free recipe on my website. Do not use fertilizer pellets or sticks since these apply too much too often.

Purchasing.It's difficult to even find a phal that's not in bloom at the time of purchase, but if possible purchase a not-yet-blooming plant, because travel from store to home can be traumatic causing blooms to drop. Look for unblemished leaves and petals - orchids are particularly susceptible to disease so be sure yours is healthy. Inspect the roots to be sure they are firm and not mushy.

Repotting. The only difficulty about orchids in general, including phals, is repotting. It is a necessity every 2 years or when roots are growing out over the rim of the pot. The continued health of your orchid depends upon repotting and propagation. It's not brain surgery but you need to follow step-by-step instruction. Go to my site or google orchid repotting for guidance.

Conclusion. Your phal thrives on consistent care like all the rest of our houseplants. And try talking to your orchid! Amazingly, research indicates that plants do better when we talk to them. And take a good long look at your orchid blooms - such beauty!

Jan Gilbert is an author for the Orchid Growing Center at http://www.secretlifeoforchids.com/. This website is a free resource for orchid lovers of all ages and levels of experience. The mission of the Center is to make orchid growing easy and inexpensive, and to educate the public about the stunning beauty, fascinating history, and endless adventure in the wild world of orchids.

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Orchid Types - The Top 10 Most-Popular Types of Orchids

With literally thousands of orchid types to choose from, how can you pick the one that's right for you?

Above all, the most important thing to consider is how well your new plant is going to adapt to the environment you're able to give it.

To help you in choosing a plant that's especially well-suited to YOU, here's a "Top 10" rundown of the most popular types of orchids.

Cattleya: Cattleya orchids are perfect for you if you'll be growing them in areas with a lot of natural light such as the Midwestern United States or Central or South America. These plants reward their orchid growers with an extravagant display of colorful blooms. They seem to be sending back out the very sun they soak up.

Phalaenopsis: Phalaenopsis orchids, or "moth orchids", are ever popular among beginner growers because they're one of the most resilient and sturdy orchid types out there. They can survive many of the inevitable beginner's mistakes that would kill less hearty plants, and their blossoms put on a great show to boot.

Vandas: Vandas are one of those orchid types that does best in a hanging basket rather than a closed-in pot. While all orchids like to have sufficient aeration around their roots, these types absolutely crave it.

Dendrobiums: Dendrobiums are popular because they're relatively easy to care for, and also come in a huge variety of shapes and colors. A good "all-purpose" orchid, dendrobiums can produce some of the most impressive blossoms of any orchid with relatively minimal maintenance.

Paphiopedilum: Paphiopedilum orchids are quite interesting. They tend to produce only a single blossom per plant, but the blossom is of such elegance and vibrancy that you have to see it to believe it! This unique quality makes the paphiopedilum a very popular orchid type.

Oncidiums: Oncidiums are one of the most diverse orchid types. They come in more than a thousand different variations of shapes, sizes, and colors. If you can support the environmental needs of an oncidium (ask your orchid supplier for the exact requirements depending on type), then you can certainly find a style that matches your desires.

Miltonia: Miltonias are orchids that reward you with a warm and pleasant fragrance in addition to the visual splendor of the flower. While all orchids have some kind of scent, the scent is the focus with Miltonias. This makes them perfect for indoor growing!

Phragmipedium: Phragmipedium orchids are interesting in that they are one of the few orchids to produce vibrant flowers in an intermediate environment. You see, normally it is the extremes of climate that produce the most interesting colors. But this type of orchid is great for you if you have a temperate and mild climate but desire bright blossoms.

Odontoglossum: Odontoglossums are recommended for you if you're going to do your growing in an orchid greenhouse. While these plants are relatively easy to care for and produce massive beautiful blooms, they just simply require too much heat and humidity to thrive indoors. Treat them right!

Cymbidium: Cymbidium orchids always put on a show whether or not they're in bloom thanks to their long thin leaves. These leaves, which sometimes reach up to four feet in length, can provide a stunning cascade effect that makes this orchid type very popular indeed.

Now after evaluating your environment and what you can provide, use this handy list of orchid types to choose your next orchid plant.

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Pests, Fungal Infections and Environmental Orchid Problems

Orchid suffer from many of the same common problems as the majority of house plants. But they also suffer from some fairly specific ones too. This includes many of the same pests and fungal infections plus environmental factors such as over-watering, poor lighting and general damage.

Most of these problems can be easily identified and solved with a little time and attention.

Common Orchid Pests

Pests come in two varieties, those that are harmful and those that are not. Of the non-harmful types most are there just to feed on decaying plant material and some can even be beneficial but depending on how you feel about them you just might not want them in your home, centipedes for example.

Aphids are a nuisance common to most plants, attacking new plant growth where the surface is thinnest and easier to break down. Although they can be quite destructive they are relatively easy to keep under control with general house plant insecticides.

Slugs and snails are often brought in from outdoors if you kept a plant outside during the summer or in a greenhouse. They can also hide pretty well in potting media coming out at night to eat your plants. The dead give away that these are your problem pest is the silvery trails they leave. Fortunately they are large enough to be picked off by hand, but check your potting medium for any that are hiding themselves or simply replace it entirely.

White Scale may show up as yellow spots on your leaves with a small white or cream coloured centre which is the hard outer shell of the insect itself. You can treat this directly with some oil based solution to suffocate the occupants but they can survive in the roots for around six months so you'll need to apply insecticide on a regular basis for some time.

Environmental Conditions

The conditions and care you give your orchid will have a big effect on it's ability to thrive and even its chances of falling victim to viruses and fungal infections. A weak plant is far more susceptible to these things.

Too much strong direct sunlight can cause burns on your orchids leaves and may leave nasty marks too. Avoid placing your orchid in direct sunlight, you could simply move it, shade it with something or diffuse the light with frosted glass.

Over-watering will cause many problems including root loss and limp leaves. If your orchids leaves are limp this may be a sign of root loss usually due to them being in contact with water for too long. If you think this may be the case then first check that the potting media is not to compacted through decay.

Decaying potting media will prevent adequate drainage and retain a lot of moisture next to the root. Replace the media and make sure your orchid is tightly potted. If the problem remains then you should probably water it less often, make sure that the roots are completely dry before you water again.

Some problems can be caused by incorrect feeding, too much and young leaves could turn brown and die. Too little feed and your orchids leaves may be mottled, yellowing or abnormally developed. See if your fertilizer is suitable for orchids, non-specialized orchid feed may not contain the required nutrients and trace minerals that your orchid needs.

Fungal Infections

If you're plant has a fungal infection it's possible that it was already weakened due to conditions or damage. These infections usually show up as blackened areas of the plants originating from the pseudobulb and spreading.

In this case prevention is easier than cure, as damage from a fungal infection is usually permanent. Treatment in most cases involves removing the infected area with a sharp clean blade and treating the wound with a fungicide or hydrogen peroxide solution applied directly to the infected area. Don't worry about rinsing the solution off as it will break down safely and naturally.

You can prevent many of these problems with your orchid by taking a little time to check that it's being kept in the optimum conditions. Check that your orchid is kept in a suitable temperature range for its species and avoid watering or misting with cold water as the shock can weaken your plant making it more susceptible to disease.

Treat cuts when they occur, you can do this with an application of sulphur powder or everyday cinnamon powder.

If you're treating an infection or pest problem with spray or other solution make sure you don't miss the underside of the leaves.

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The Phalaenopsis Orchid Care

Phalaenopsis or Phal, or also called Moth orchid, is an orchid genus introduced by Blume in 1825. This genus name refers to phalaena, a name of the moth (Lepidoptera) subdivision given by Carolus Linnaeus, since this orchid closely resembles the shape of a moth

This genus includes about 60 species which are native to the South East Asian region from the Himalayan mountains to the Indonesian archipelago, Malaysia, the Philippines and northern part of Australia. They are mostly epiphytes with a few numbers of lithophytes. In bare nature, some species grow under the shade of moist and wet forests sheltered against direct sunlight. Others grow in environments with dry or cool seasons.

Phalaenopsis does not have pseudobulbs or rhizome usually found in epiphytes. It grows in a single upright stem with some alternating fleshy and thick, elliptical leaves. This growth habit is called monopodial growth. A healthy phal could produce up to ten or more leaves along its stem. The cluster of flowers, either in the form of raceme or panicle grows from the stem between leaves. In the wilderness their full blooming will last for several weeks, while if kept at homes, it might bloom for 2 - 3 months. ???

Phalaenopsis are very suitable as potted orchids since they are easy to propagate and bloom under artificial conditions. Since the introduction of Phalaenopsis Doris, a tetrapoloid hybrid of this orchid, their growing in homes become very easy assuming that the provided conditions are nearly the same as their native habitat. Phalaenopsis has been commercially produced ever since.?

Phalaenopsis orchid care guidelines

Light. Place your phal near or at a bright window. The ideal window spot is an east or west facing window. In gloomy or cloudy days a shady southern window will do best Avoid direct sunlight in mid-days. The most appropriate time is the early morning or in late afternoon sun.

In the absence of sunlight, a fluorescent light is a good substitute by placing it about 1 foot above the orchid. Do not forget to time your light resembling normal daytime length. If a home greenhouse is in your possession, you may as well use a heavy shade cloth to produce a light intensity of 1,000 - 1,500 fc (foot candles) during summer in particular.? ??

Temperature. The preferred temperature for phals is ranging between 55? and 85?F. To provide ideal growth it is best to set a night temperature of 60?F and a daytime temperature of 75? - 80?F.

Cool night temperatures during the fall will promote the initiation of flower spike. Be careful in maintaining the temperature, since too fluctuated temperature may cause failure of the bud to open and may drop off. A temperature exceeding 90?F will slow down growth.

Humidity. Phals need moderate levels of humidity. The ideal range is between 50% - 75% relative humidity. In heated homes place your phal on a shallow tray which is filled with stones and water to keep the desired humidity near your phal. Make sure that the roots do not immerse in the water.?

Water. Phals need to be watered thoroughly. Do not let them dry to the point of wilting. The frequency of watering depends also on the type of potting media that are in use as well as its growing environment. An average of every 7 - 10 days will be sufficient.

Remember that heated homes in winter produces lower humidity which means that you need to water your phal more often. If they dry to the point of wilting it really will be a setback for your pity phal.?

Fertilizer. For satisfactory results, applying a slow release fertilizer with an equal proportion of N-P-K will be sufficient. You can use the liquid plant food as well using the equal proportion as recommended on the label and applying it every second time of your watering.

Flowering. The phal flowers are recognized to have a long lifespan. You can even induce the second flowering through timely pruning. What you have to do after the fading of the last flower is to check the spike and look for fleshy bulges or nodes. Count out 3 fleshy nodes and cut the spike about an inch above the third node.

By doing this, a healthy plant will stimulate one or two nodes to produce a cluster of new blooms. Repeating this several times will make it possible for you to enjoy your phal blooming of almost 6 months. ?

Repotting. As any other orchids, phals need to be repotted. The same reason of repotting also applies to your phal; the outgrowing from its present pot and the condition of the potting media that should be renewed. How to repot your phal have I explained in article specially addressed to this issue??

Pestcontrol.The danger of being messed up or hampered by insects or others is still there and can disturb the healthy life of your phal. So, monitor your orchid for aphids, mites, slug and scale. If you find any, remove it with a soft cloth steeped in soapy water. You can also use a pest control product, but make sure to follow the instructions on its label.?

Well, that concludes the brief explanation about Phalaenopsis and some guidelines on how to care for your amazing phal.

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Three Components For Phalaenopsis Orchid Care

Orchids are popular as houseplants because of their flowering and elegance. Phalaenopsis orchids are popular for beginning orchid growers because they are easier to care for than most other orchids. These orchids are native to Southeast Asia, the Philippines and Australia. Phalaenopsis comes in shades of pink, lavender, white and yellow. With the proper care, Phalaenopsis can flower year after year and provide beautiful, stunning flowers as a reward to its grower. The three main components that any orchid needs to thrive including Phalaenopsis are water, light and fertilizer.

Phalaenopsis, like most orchids, need water to live. The general guideline is to water them once every ten to fourteen days. You may adjust this number depending upon your particular environment. Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid. This means that it is not usually found planted in the ground. Instead, this orchid thrives on living on other objects such as a tree. When you water this orchid, it likes to have its roots dry almost completely before the next watering. Typically, most people pot Phalaenopsis in a bark type of medium. Fir or Pine bark are usually used. The bark can hold moisture and nutrients until the plant is ready to accept them. Examine the bark for dryness when preparing to water the orchid again. Sometimes peat moss is used in the pot. The peat moss also holds moisture, so you may be able to water less often. After you water your orchids, allow the excess water to drain. Allowing it to stay in the pot will cause root rot. Root rot can cause your orchid to wilt and die.

Phalaenopsis needs light to convert food into energy and to bloom. This orchid favors a cooler natural light. Placing this orchid in an easterly facing window is the preferred direction. Here, it can enjoy a cooler morning sunlight and a cooler light in the evening. Midday sun may be too hot. Move your Phalaenopsis to a different window during the hottest part of the day to prevent leaf burn. Then move it back to the easterly window for the next day. You may also use blinds or shades to soften the light during the hottest hours of the day. If the cooler natural light is not readily available, you can also use artificial light. Fluorescent light is a common choice. Set this light on a timer and a schedule so that the maximum exposure does not exceed twelve hours. Twelve hours is about the maximum amount of light for both natural and artificial for Phalaenopsis. The artificial light should be placed about a foot above the plant.

Fertilize Phalaenopsis about once every two weeks. This is the guideline for feeding it. In general, just before the blooming season you may want to feed it on a regular schedule until the blooms have come about; then stop feeding. This orchid favors a temperature of around 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Just before blooming, allow the orchid to be exposed to cooler temperatures at night for a week or two. The coolness exposure tends to bring about a better bloom from Phalaenopsis. Increase the cooler temperatures based upon how well your orchids are blooming. If the blooms do not seem to be there, increase the exposure to the cooler temperatures at night. Phalaenopsis should have better blooms. Water your orchid first before fertilizing. Then apply a diluted solution of fertilizer. The solution should contain about 1/3 the recommended manufacturer's dosage. Generally, you should stop feeding it completely after the blooming season is over. The type of fertilizer to use is balanced fertilizer. Fertilizer has a label that contains three numbers and dashes in between. 20-20-20 or 16-16-16 are balanced fertilizers. They each have equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash. 20-20-20 means 20% nitrogen, 20% phosphorous and 20% potash. The nitrogen helps foliage growth and general health; the phosphorous encourages bloom development and good root growth; and potash helps resists diseases and contributes to overall good health.

Phalaenopsis is a popular houseplant because it can thrive in non-tropical temperatures about what us humans usually endure. This makes them easy to care for indoors. Most garden centers and other growers will be able to tell you helpful hints to care for these orchids the best way. The successful formula for healthy, happy orchids are the right amount of light, water and fertilizer. Given the proper amount of care, your orchids should bloom season after season and reward you with beautiful blooms year after year.

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Pruning Your Orchid The Easy Way

Before carrying out any pruning of your orchid, it should be remembered that the majority of indoor grown orchids are epiphytic, otherwise known as tree growing. This natural growing characteristic requires a particular range of plant care which includes orchid pruning.

Further to this, each orchid species requires a particular pruning method. The following is a selection of popular orchids, each with its respective pruning requirements.

Dendrobium Orchid

The optimum time for pruning the Dendrobium Orchid is at the end of its annual growth period during late autumn and early winter, which is when the flowers have died off and any dead branches are visible. Pruning at this time will reduce the overall size to enable it to retain its nutrients during the dormant period.

After carefully removing the orchid from its pot cut off any broken or dead roots plus those which appear unhealthy. Re-pot the orchid in fresh potting medium and then generously water straight through the pot.

By cutting back any the dead foliage, branches and stems, this will encourage new plant growth during the following growth season.

Phalaenopsis Orchid

During its growing season, the Phalaenopsis Orchid will develop several flowers clustered along it stem. When each of these flowers has wilted, cut it off at its junction with the stem.

This process of cutting off each flower as it finishes its blooming period and begins to wilt will assist in stimulating further flowering.

At the end of the orchid's growing season, usually late autumn or early winter, it is recommended to cut back the stem to directly above the second node up the stem. This will encourage vigorous growth during the following flowering season and may even produce immediate re-flowering.

Paphiopedilum Orchid

At the end of the flowering season the Paphiopedilum Orchid stem will gradually turn brown and subsequently dry out, in which case it can be carefully snapped off. Alternatively, those orchids with fibrous stems can be cut off to promote blooming during the following growth season.

Check on the condition of roots and remove any that are damaged or dead. This is best achieved by removing the orchid from its pot and allowing the potting mix to fall away.

Also this provides an opportunity to check on the condition of the existing potting mix and whether the orchid requires to be re-potted in fresh potting medium.

Vanda Orchid

Some care needs to be taken when pruning the Vanda Orchid. Only prune those parts of the orchid that appear brown and dry; the green stem and leaves indicate that the plant is healthy and must remain to generate fresh growth.

Check the orchid roots and cut off those that are black or yellow in colour.

Cattleya Orchid

For pruning the Cattleya Orchid it is recommended, when the flower begins to wilt and die off, to cut off the flower spike and its associated protective sheath just above the top leaf on the main stem.

This will encourage the orchid to develop a new pseudobulb which in turn should produce a new flower during the following growth season.

If you are dividing your Cattleya Orchid, ensure that it is large enough so that after dividing, each separate division has a minimum of three new growths. This will ensure that the newly divided orchids will retain sufficient nutrients to support new growth.

General Pruning Requirements

When pruning your orchid always use a sharp blade, whether it is a small knife, single-edged razor or secateurs.

In addition, to avoid the risk of infecting your orchid with disease, the cutting blade should be sterilised, either by immersing in a diluted bleach solution or passing it through a naked flame.

Further to this, ensure that your hands or work gloves are thoroughly washed before touching the orchid.

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Orchid Propagation - The #1 Method for Successful Orchid Propagation

For orchid lovers, orchid propagation is a vitally important matter. Simply put, one of the reasons that orchids are so popular is because of their "fussiness."

While some people might complain about a plant as demanding as the orchid, their delicate nature is often what endears fans of the plant to it. That said, no one really wants to wait for years as their orchid approaches its first bloom!

The good news is that there is a way to propagate orchids more quickly. In fact you can produce large quantities of nearly bloom-ready plants in just a short amount of time.

By far the most popular method of orchid propagation is called "division."

What this means is simply cutting your plant in half. Instead of one healthy plant, you have two slightly smaller healthy plants. Some orchid growers may have a heart attack when they think about cutting their beloved orchids in half, but this is really nothing unusual in the world of plants.

For example, people take cuttings of cacti (and many others) all the time to propagate new plants. The principle with orchid propagation is exactly the same.

As for how to divide your plant, there's no real trick to it! Plants, like most forms of life, tend to have an element of symmetry to them, which means that they tend to grow evenly on both sides. If you gently push apart the stems of your orchid, you'll see that at the base of the plant, just above the soil, there's already a natural division going on.

Most plants can just be sheared apart easily at this junction, with the result that both new plants would still have healthy and full root structures, and plenty of shoots from which to flower.

Once you've done this...congratulations, you've turned one orchid into two!

When extrapolated to a larger scale, you can see just how effective this method of orchid propagation can be (and why it's so popular with growers).

Now there are also two slight variations on division that are worth taking a look at...

Keiki: As if there weren't enough reasons already to love the phalaenopsis orchid, here is yet another. These plants sometimes grow what are known as "keiki", small plants that begin to sprout out from the flower spike.

These keiki plants are nearly always removed because they can be a drain on the main orchid's nutritional resources. But there's nothing stopping you from potting and growing a keiki into a full-size plant in its own right.

Back Bulb Division: Many plants grow what are known as "back bulbs" or "pseudobulbs", bulbs which may not ever flower, and which are largely leafless. Some growers value these for their ability to store water for the main plant. However in a plant that's already healthy and mature, you can easily remove these and repot them. Under the right conditions, they'll grow roots and soon form into complete plants.

Truth be told, part of the joy of growing orchids is taking advantage of the ways in which they seem to offer themselves up to abundant propagation. Take advantage by following these tips for successful orchid propagation, and you're sure to be pleased with the results.

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